1. Thursday, September 3rd - Hampton-Hilton Hotel Edinburgh - When we went to the baggage claim we found that one of our bags had been "delayed". We told them where we were staying and they said they would send the bag to the hotel. (Kristi's two bits): This is our tenth tour ten years since our last and as of the 11th of September, the 25th anniversary of our first (okay, figure that date out folks; needless to say that's a story of its own). It does feel to our small perspectives a bit momentous. It will probably be our last though we have no reason to see any doomsday scenario ahead. We've deliberately avoided stomping our carbon footprint too hard with this kind of travel. But how sweet it is to be still able to do it! The British Airways baggage snafu has me wondering about the entire scenario since the receptionist staff at our hotel Hampton by Hilton at the Airport were way too familiar with the routine. But lest I give the impression they're remiss in their intentions to get the bag to us yet, I should refrain from criticism...so far!
2. Friday,
September 4th - Visit Malcolm & Mary LeMaistre – see Malcolm’s
trees and out to Indian Dinner. It was really great to see Malcolm and Mary. We first met them in 2001 at a festival in Scotland. Malcolm casually invited us to visit him at the performers party at the end of the festival. I don't think he really thought we'd come, but we did and we're still friends after all these years with many visits to hear about his projects, and watch his forest grow.
3. Saturday,
September 5th - Leave Hampton-Hilton Hotel without the big red bag.
4. Sunday, September 6th - Meet Val Monteith-Towler for dinner & play Guisborough Folk Club @ Rugby Club. Val brought an amplifier for Kristi to use – We also found a phone charger to work with 220 V. It was great to see Val - long conversation and she was terrific helping us with our sound, and generally being supportive. It was our first gig in the UK this year. (Kristi's two bits): Kudos also to the members of the Guisborough Folk Club for a lovely turnout of receptive, friendly folks, and in particular, Anne Wilson, club coordinator, for all her help. I believe this was our sixth year performing for the group.
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| Rugby Club before performance |
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| Val Helps |
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| Val & Kristi |
5. Monday,
September 7th - Drive to Odiham to Air BnB – stopped in rest area to
sleep in car for an hour and a half. It was a long drive from Guisborough. (Kristi's two bits): Steve is doing a fine job driving these wiggly, narrow roads that seem to get more congested every time we come. And while I'm being ethnocentric, I'll carry on with more insignificant things that seem to me to have changed in twenty-five years here (as if you're interested): 1. Colas I order come cold now instead of warm, and frequently have ice. 2. Chain hotels with reasonable prices are everywhere now, replacing the more expensive bed and breakfasts that were our only choices in 2001. 3. Adults now openly reveal their knees in the form of shorts, which were nowhere to be seen in 2001. Maybe an exceptionally hot summer has had something to do with that. 4. I have yet to see clothing drying on a clothes line. That was the way most people dried clothing from the wash ten years ago. Of course these are strictly superficial observations easily disproven by anyone wanting to take issue with me.
| Air BnB Odiham |
6. Tuesday,
September 8th – order and pickup stepdown transformer so I can use
this computer – in the evening I ordered a new bass amp for Kristi that . . . but
that evening we had a radio interview in Alton, which was a short distance from
our air b n b. There were two guys who did the interview, one actually doing the interview (mostly just playing some songs) and the other guy who we had a long talk with. You can see some of it on our Steve and Kristi Nebel Facebook feed. (Kristi's two bits): This show is called Acoustic Cafe, hosted by Brian Player, and airs on the community station, Wey Valley Radio. They're tireless volunteers with a loyal local following, much appreciated by us and others in Hants.
7. Wednesday, September 9th - Waited for the amplifier to come - when it got here we had to try it out and thankfully it works well – good enough to do the job. Also the airline proxy was found and they are going to get the big red bag to us when we get to Sawbridgeworth and are visiting Geoff Leeds. We went for a walk which buoyed our spirits a bit. (Kristi's two bits): The entire saga of the missing bag has caused enough consternation, panic, and anxiety to make me recall the simple, sage advice to a high school classmate from her mother as she faced career changes and identity crises: "When you have problems that overwhelm you, just figure it out!" That was my credo in dealing with the missing parts of our required elements which were in that big red bag. We did figure it out, so that now, with or without the bag, we can and will manage with what we've got. Thus we're able to sleep at night knowing I have an amplifier for my electric bass guitar, and we have an electric stepdown transformer enabling us to use all of our electronic devices in this country. Needless to say it's a big relief.

A dog begging attention from strangers.
Thursday, September 10th - We spent the day enjoying our location and the Air BnB that we had rented. We went for the longer walk that our hostess had suggested, visited Odiham Castle, and walked by the canal. My only complaint came later when I discovered I had bruised the bottom of my feet as the shoes I've been wearing have very thin soles.

This is a house with a thatched roof. It's something you don't see often in the USA.
These are sloe berries. I didn't know what they were. When I tasted one it had a pit and a sour taste. They are not blueberries, but they are what you make sloe gin from. We saw several bushes full of them.


Friday, September 11th, Saturday September 12th & Sunday, September13th
Friday was our last day in Odiham (Pron. Odium). We got our groceries out of the refrigerator, packed our suitcases, threw away the box that the amplifier came in. We took out the trash, and after breakfast cleaned the dishes. The next step was getting everything into the car, which we did. As we were just getting ready to go a gentleman walking his dog stopped and we had a conversation. It turned out that he had lived in the area all his life, and he had brothers who lived within walking distance of his home, which was near. He mentioned that people around there were known as "Hampshire Hogs".
We got in the car, ready to head off but our power plug for our GPS was shorting out. We spent such a long time trying to get the GPS to work that the fellow on his walk came back again, this time just a greeting as he walked on. We were then off to Bogner Regis and the Carlton Hotel. We stopped in Chichester to get a new power adapter for our GPS, which we did and we're much happier now. Oh, that happiness should be so easily accessible! Then on to the Carlton Hotel. The proprietor was named Rom, a serious Indian man. He helped lug our baggage up to the third floor. Kristi says she was glad of the exercise, and that's a good thing because we did a lot of up and down in the two days we spent there.

The room was tiny and there were few amenities provided, but it did have a bed and an air conditioner, which we needed. It had a loud fan which was handy to mask sound from the beach and the bar while we slept. We took a little time to find out where we were scheduled to play the next night. In town there was a walking shopping street. I suppose you'd call it an outdoor mall. Kristi had been looking for a "Greggs" bakery, which is her go to for sausage rolls and caramel shortbread. There was one in the walking mall. We bought a few things and stopped and sat on a bench across from a couple of women drinking beer on the bench across the street from us.

This is a view of across the street from the hotel. Kristi noticed that there were a lot more short pants than we had experienced in earlier years in England. Wardrobes have migrated with the times. I suppose I dress differently now too. Driving around that central part of Bogner Regis was a challenge. I suppose not as bad as center Edinburgh, or Leicester, but tight with plenty of one way streets, and lots of cars.

This picture is of a booth that sells "cockles, mussels" not alive though. We didn't sample their wares but were amused at their presence. Saturday was performance day for us so we went over to the RAFA club to check it out, and managed to arrange to get a permit for parking while we performed as our instruments are quite heavy with the original cases. We had meant to have gig bags, and Kristi's amp is small and fits in a rucksack but all of that stuff is still with British Airways so we had the new amplifier, and two guitars in really heavy cases (they protected them well while enroute).
We met the sound guy in this first exploration of the RAFA Club. He was nice enough and assured me that they had plenty of microphones. We stopped at a little restaurant on our way back to the hotel and had a bite to eat. There was a sea shanty group across the street singing sea shanties. There were performers in the streets all day. We saw a fine group of Irish dancers a block away from the sea shanties.
Finally we got dressed and drove over to the RAFA Club early for our performance. We were really early so we put our instruments in storage with the festival personnel downstairs, got ourselves something to drink and waited for the ukuleles to cool off a bit. When it was a bit before our time we escaped downstairs, picked up our instruments . . . (we could have take the lift) and walked upstairs. The sound guy was named Steve so I thought we'd get along OK. The first thing the staff did was take all the concert seating away and left an empty dance floor. Steve was taking the mics and mic stands off the stage before I pointed out that we were going to need them. We then had a conversation about how we would be set up. The mixer was at the back of the room so I had no access to it. There was a snake, but no direct boxes. When I asked about direct boxes Steve was a bit indignant telling me,
"it said in your directions that you were to provide all the backline". Well, in my book that meant that if I was going to need a guitar amplifier I would have one. Kristi had her amp, but I prefer to have all the instruments in the mains speakers with the vocals, but Steve . . . well he didn't see it that way. They did have a guitar amplifier. I noticed, however, late in the performance that some of my guitar strings were more or less transparent in the amplifier. I probably could have fixed that if I had been prepared to use a guitar amplifier, but I wasn't. Then, of course, there was the matter of no stage monitors so Steve turned the mains speakers (the budget version of Mackie SRM350s) towards us so we could hear ourselves. The next thing, when we did a sound check, Steve tells me to turn down the guitar because with the mains pointed directly at us he can't get the vocals up where they're supposed to be without feedback.
After we played there were a couple of people who said they'd told the customers who were talking to shut up, apologized for their rudeness and said how ashamed they were of people who just couldn't behave themselves. Generally the response was overwhelming good. We were pretty good for a couple of jetlagged Yankees. There's a good chance that the rest of our performances will be completely acoustic performances (except for Kristi "Boom Boom's" bass amp).
We had a drink in the bar downstairs in the hotel and retired to our room for a bit of Netflix entertainment. I'm amazed at how easy Netflix has made it to hook up with our account wherever we travel. If you know British television well enough the entertainment value can be excellent, however if you don't, you may well miss all the good TV for some programming that is less than optimum for you. I guess I'm missing out on my cultural immersion by using Netflix, but back home on Netflix we often do watch British programming.
On Sunday we stayed around for the Jez Lowe Show. It was a free concert so we got there early and as it turned out there were plenty of seats, although it did fill up late. I think I got some hints about what I could do to spice things up a bit with my guitar playing. I'll have to write some new songs though. No problem.

The drive to Sawbridgeworth was uneventful other than the tiny roads which was the last bit we drove to get to Geoff's house. I wouldn't call it scary, but maybe a bit "nervous"?
Kristi's voice now:
Sam's death was a blow. Having lost a brother too I am well aware of the pain of losing the only one we will ever have. This loss will never part us. From where I see it, many moments of bonded brotherhood are lovingly behind us both. We will share more tears for Sam yet.
South Downs Folk Festival ended well. We performed Saturday night in a RAFA Club, meaning Royal Air Force, much like the fraternal organizations we played dance music for during several decades of our career as a cover band. It's by my experience a bit unusual, expecting a crowd of drinkers to sit quietly for a concert of original music, so we had the expectations to match the situation. A number of them were in fact just waiting for another such band to follow us. The group was mixed. We had some who very attentively responded and others who didn't. Afterward we were approached by three who were very enthused about us, and later by two more the next day. And we had a roaring request for an encore when we finished, so by my standards were well received.
Bognor Regis is one of the many seaside towns in the U.K. drawing tourists with casinos, game rooms, all manner of food both British and international, and an esplanade upon which to promenade. In my travels I must confess I've been a bit less than adventurous in a culinary sense. In Nome I politely declined the offer to share muktuk with newfound Inupiaq friends. I still have a twinge of guilt in that rude ethnocentricity, knowing what it took that group to harvest that whale. And still I've not visited one of these quick-stop food huts selling these oddities. If you look closely at the photo above you'll see they're selling cockles, mussels, jellied eels, and whelks. I may yet, though. What say you? Should I? The little huts selling beach chairs for rent are a bit of a curiosity not seen in the U.S. But none were in business this late in the season. Nobody gets wet, apparently; no swimsuits to be seen. Then again, the North Sea isn't exactly tropical. It leads me to wonder what's the draw for all these people. It has been speculated by minds more astute than mine, that possibly it got rolling in the industrial revolution of Victorian England, when the working class families finally were able to save a few pennies to get away from their little homes for a new thing, the holiday. And where was there to go? The only true escape on this densely populated island is that wilderness of the sea. At least that was so before air travel. And then there was the ever-present problem of the air, so universally sullied by coal dust. We all know the sea air is better, right? So all roads eventually reach the sea. And once there, folks recline under cloudy skies and stare at the wild waves, mesmerized by the gentle roar.

Monday, September 14th
A couple of days ago I got the word that my brother Sam passed away. Kristi and I had made one last trip to see him before we headed out for the UK. He had passed into hospice before we left, but I was sure he'd still be there when we returned to the states. I was in denial. Now he's gone, passed into memories. There was always some conflict in our relationship, not outwardly, but at a more subtle level. I found this poem on this computer today from a few years ago. I added to it. I wonder about the wisdom of sharing it, but I guess I just need to have someone bear witness to my feelings.

Dose Meadows
Does it matter if they listened?
At that time, I thought it did.
Until I said those words,
You in firm denial
The forest was closing around me
I was bathing in the sound of
The mountain streams
The green of the devil’s club.
I know. It’s a spikey plant,
Unfriendly like I am sometimes
Yet, I find the plant architecture
That is there . . . attractive.
The horses were behind us
We were going at a fair pace
Then you said, “no, that’s not how it happened”
You, with no experience
Never spoke to him about his life
Telling me no.
The forest blurred as anger filled
My head. I walked on ahead.
Now you don’t remember me,
Asked me if I watched the Superbowl
If you actually knew me
You would know
I never watch the Superbowl.
We spread our parents’ ashes in the meadow
On the mountainside,
The horses grazing peacefully
There was a stillness in the air
I was left without words
As I am sometimes without words
When I am with you
Today.
Now you are gone.
The last time we saw you
You were well disabled.
We took you in your wheelchair
For a walk (for us), a wheel
Around the block for you.
I was no longer angry.
My anger burns slow most times anyway.
The death squad showed up
When we got you back to your room.
The chaplain, social worker, and RN.
They could have just as well
Been carrying a scythe
Told us they’d come back later.
For me, you were still alive,
Maybe not kicking,
But certainly you were my brother.
We tried to share
Our lives.
Maybe I was just as guilty
Of not listening hard enough,
Not paying the attention
That needs to be paid.
For now, if I have a question
I can speak into the ether
Can be assured of no answer.
I should have always known better.
You stayed home from family vacations
To play baseball.
You missed Yellowstone, Yosemite,
Disneyland.
I remember you had a violin
But I never heard you play it.
You lettered in football, basketball,
And mostly baseball.
I was inside my head,
A book I was reading,
A different world.
Still, I should have taken the time,
Made the effort to see your world,
Or maybe not.
Hindsight is twenty-twenty,
And now the future
Will continue
Without you.
As for us, we're in Sawbridgeworth at Geoff Leeds home. Geoff is coming home today from a folk festival. We're looking forward to seeing him. We've been here many times before. It has been one of our stops when we have no place to go. We drove here yesterday after staying in Bogner Regis to see a Jez Lowe concert. He was every bit as good as his reputation, funny, a fine voice, and an excellent hand with his instruments (left hand guitar, cittern, and mandolin). He sang a song that was notes from his stolen mandolin. The mandolin spoke quite eloquently of the slob who had stolen her. The song is on the cd we bought from him which I'm looking forward to listening to.
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